Death of a Stupid Man?

Some things defy explanation. They must be taken on faith; you either understand it or you don't. I believe the image above is all the explanation most people will need in order to understand this post. Unlike all of my other posts thus far, this doesn't contain a recipe, images taken during preparation, or fancy lessons learned during the process of making this monstrosity. Instead, I'm posting a single image: one that conveys all that needs to be said.

The wonder depicted at the top of this post is known as the Coronary Burger (at least as far as I know), and may be one of the most awesome things in the universe. It may also be the cause of my untimely death--that remains to be seen, of course. As may be evident, it is a burger, but in place of buns it utilizes two grilled cheese sandwiches. Naturally, no burger is complete without bacon, which is amply represented by four slices piled atop the patty itself. Condiments are necessary as well, of course: slight mayo on both "buns" and an ample portion of ketchup (read: half a bottle).

Some may call me crazy for making this creature, and crazier still for eating it. I pity those unfortunate souls, for they shall never understand the wonder that is this burger. It was a marvel to behold and a delight to consume. While my heart may not appreciate the years I just took off my life, I consider the sacrifice well worth it. Attempt at your own risk!

All Wrapped Up

Fajitas: Not the most photogenic of meals.

Given my recent lethargy in regards to new spur-of-the-moment creations, I have lately taken to prepping a single large dish at the beginning of the week and then eating it for the following five days until the weekend strikes and I have time to repeat the process. This one-week-meal concept can be seen in my recent lasagna post as well as an unposted (but upcoming, someday) tuna casserole one. Several friends of mine (well, one, generally ;) often remark upon this process wondering how I could possibly eat the same dish all week long (in some cases for two meals a day) and not get bored of it, and my usual response is to grunt noncommittally and continue daydreaming about corn pie. However, I figure this post presents me with a decent opportunity to expand upon my usual eloquence.

Truth be told, I certainly do get bored with the same meal all the time. Ideally, I would love to prep several large dishes over the course of a weekend, freeze some of the results, and then coast through a month off of a single weekend's worth of work. I do think it's safe to say that I would not get tired of this process so long as I had a relatively large pool of big (and freezeable) dishes to draw from due to the simple fact that leftovers are, to me, one of the greatest creations for lazy people all over the world. The idea that I can go the store and pick up ~$10 worth of ingredients and have the resulting meal last me seven sittings is something I draw a great deal of happiness from, as it appeals to both my lazy and frugal sides. I suppose one thing that helps keep these meals fresh over the course of a week is the memory of the number appearing on the cash register and winding up lower than the average cost of a single meal at a restaurant.

Of course, the catch-22 in this brilliant plan is the very fact that it stems from laziness, which tends to prevent one from spending an entire weekend prepping several dishes to be enjoyed over the course of a month. Indeed, it is often more than I can muster to put together a single dish, let alone several. As such, it is somewhat rare that I manage to freeze anything, and instead I wind up eating the same thing day in and day out. Boring, yes. Expensive? No, and that's probably worth its weight in boredom at this point.

Chicken Fajitas
(Method for preparing chicken stolen from Shari)

Ingredients
4 Chicken breasts*
1 tbsp Flour
1 tbsp Corn starch
2 tbsp Seasoning**
2 Medium onions
2 Bell peppers (whatever type you prefer)
1 Bunch green onions
3 Cloves of garlic
4 tbsp Butter
1/4c Soy Sauce
1/4c Hoisin Sauce
A crapton of cheese
Sour cream as desired

*Any cut of chicken will do, of course. I just happened to have breasts on hand.
**I didn't have taco seasoning on hand, so I mixed up some of my own: 1tsp onion powder, 1tsp garlic powder, 1tsp cayenne pepper, 1tsp chili powder, 1tsp ground cumin, and 1tsp some random steak seasoning that I wanted to get rid of. The steak seasoning had salt, so I omitted it from the mix; otherwise, add salt in there too.

Procedure
1) Slice the chicken into thin strips.

Note my bag of seasoning waiting at the top.

2) Toss the seasoning into a bag and mix with the chicken until all the pieces appear to be coated. Set the bag aside to absorb the seasoning for an hour or so (longer wouldn't hurt!).

Sexy? No. Delicious? We'll see!

Note: I don't recommend refrigerating the chicken, as I feel it gets a quicker sear and a better consistency from sitting at room temperature. Don't worry; it's sealed up, and even if some bacteria work their way in there, our seasonings contain natural antibacterial agents that will take care of things. Try to relax; you're so uptight!

3) While waiting for the chicken to finish soaking, chop your veggies to their desired consistency. I minced the garlic, chopped the onions into half-circles, and sliced the peppers into strips.

4) Heat the butter in the wok on high heat until it starts smoking (actual smoking, no wispy nonsense). Throw the chicken in there and allow the heat to come back up.

5) When the chicken starts to fry (you can tell from the bubbles boiling up in the butter on the edges), stir gradually to ensure that all the meat gets evenly cooked. More or less. At this point, add the garlic as well.

Notice the lovely browning we get on the portions of the chicken covering the pan. We want that everywhere!

6) When the chicken is cooked, scoop it out with a slotted spoon and set it in a bowl to relax for a bit.

7) Add the bell peppers and regular onions to the remaining sauce in the wok and stir fry in the same manner. If necessary, add a little more oil or butter.

Cooking the veggies in the residual chicken juice brings the flavors in the dish together nicely.

8) When the onions become translucent, add the soy and hoisin sauces and stir to coat.

9) Remove from heat and pour the entire mix into the bowl with the chicken. Add the green onions and stir to combine.

Ok, so hoisin and soy sauces aren't exactly Mexican flavors... but they taste good!

10) Wrap in a tortilla laced with sour cream and the aforementioned crapton of cheese and you're all set!

Lessons Learned
This is a fairly simple recipe; even I managed to not screw it up. However, this did teach me that I actually like yellow bell peppers, which leaves only green ones on my hate list. They brought a great sweetness to the spice from the seasoning mix, which turned out just about perfect (although somewhat heavy on the cumin--next time, cardamom or coriander perhaps?).

Stacking Up the Week

You know there's enough cheese when there's a nice coat of oil on the top.

As of late, I actually haven't felt like experimenting with any new recipes; my drive for the unknown seems to have stalled due to a lack of energy and money. Unfortunately, my appetite doesn't always follow these lulls in my creative endeavors, and thus I am forced to create vast quantities of old standbys to last me through weeks of meals at a time, at least until my spare time catches up with my ever-expanding list of stuff to make (such as a frozen yogurt recipe that I've been informed I'm attempting). Enter: lasagna.

Pasta is an unquestionably uber dish if for no other reason that for about $1, one can buy enough of it to last an entire week, utilizing whatever appears to be lying around the house to supplement it. While lasagna doesn't represent the pinnacle of pasta's flexibility, it does represent the blessed union of two culinary greats: meat and cheese. And my version of it uses lots of both. Of course, the best part of this recipe was simply that aside from the noodles, I had all the other ingredients on hand and waiting to be united in harmony just in time to be chilled or frozen to take the dish to that next culinary level that is leftovers, which pasta lends itself to even better than most things.

But my ramblings aside, I present the recipe itself. As always, it didn't turn out exactly as I would've hoped, but I still ate every last bit of it (and it only took a week!).

Lasagna
(as adapted from my mom's recipe, designed for a 9x13 pan)

Ingredients
1 Package of Lasagna noodles
1lb Mozzarella cheese, shredded
1lb Cheddar cheese, shredded
2lb Ground meat*
2 Medium yellow onions
6 Cloves garlic
1 32oz Jar of tomato sauce
1 12oz Can of tomato paste
Parmesean as desired

*Any type of ground meat can be used, of course; my mom always used ground turkey. In this instance, I used 1lb ground beef and 1lb pork sausage, as they were both cheap.

Preheat oven to 350F.

Procedure
1) Gather all your ingredients into one compact location, preferably with a large cutting board and knife at hand.

Ok, you may have to move the ingredients aside to actually do any cutting...

2) Start a large pot of salted water to boil.

3) Mince the garlic and dice the onions. Their respective consistencies can vary according to your individual taste or how lazy you're feeling when chopping.

4) Heat a medium-large saucepan over medium heat and add the ground meat. After it has started to brown, add the onion and garlic.

Use a spatula to try and spread the meat around for even done-ness.

5) At this point, your water should be boiling, so add the noodles and stir to ensure they get completely submerged.

6) Cook the meat until the onion is translucent and the meat has become entirely brown.

7) After the desired color has been reached, remove the saucepan from the heat and drain off the excess fat. Stir in the tomato sauce and paste and set the aside for now.

8) When the noodles have reached the desired consistency (they don't have to be completely done yet, as we're baking them in a sauce anyway), drain them into a collander and allow to air out for a bit.

9) In the 9x13 pan, spoon a light coating of the sauce onto the bottom of the pan. This step prevents sticking.

10) Layer some of the noodles over the sauce; note that you don't want them too thick, so just use a single layer. Then cover the layer with more sauce.

You can see from my sauce that I was particularly lazy when dicing the garlic!

11) Add a layer of mozzarella and cheddar on top of the sauce. Don't skimp now! If desired, add parmesean to the mix as well.

12) Repeat steps 10 and 11 until the pan is full. Be sure to save the thickest coat of cheese for the top.

I only managed two layers of noodles, it appears. Next time I'll have to use a roasting pan.

13) Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes, or until heated all the way through and the cheese has melted.

Lessons Learned
I've made this fairly frequently in the past, so there wasn't a lot of experimentation here. However, completely forgot to add any herbs to the sauce; normally I'd add basil and oregano after it has finished cooking. I also added salt to the meat out of habit, since just about every recipe calls for salt at some point or another. Resist this urge! The cheese adds plenty of saltiness, especially if ample parmesean has been used. Plus, more cheese can always be added afterwards.

Rainbow Roughage

Despite the rather pedestrian appearance of the meal above, it represents an experiment--a test, of sorts--that I am conducting upon myself, your faithful writer. As a personal challenge, I have taken it upon myself to pick up one ingredient--be it vegetable, meat, marinade, or anything in between--each week that I have never worked with before and put something together using it to what will hopefully turn out to be a palatable dish. So far... well, the important part is trying. And although this week's dish may not look beautiful, it was still edible, and not a bad first attempt, as far as I'm concerned.

As the title of this post may suggest, this week I picked up a bunch of rainbow chard, both because I'd been curious about it in the past and because colorful items rank just below shiny things on my list of personal distractions. Entering into this, I knew nothing about chard, regardless of its prismatic orientation, and determined to remedy the situation post-haste. Unfortunately, some quick internet research turned up a strange dearth of interesting chard-related recipes, none of which utilized anything I had on hand aside from the chard itself. Undaunted, I delved deeper into my pantry and decided that a bag of brown rice I had lying around would make a perfect side dish for the vegetable's finished product.

Having set the rice maker to "rice", I set off in search of protein. After a brief survey of my refrigerator's sparse contents, I emerged from the frosty wasteland with some leftover pork tenderloin and a bag of bean sprouts. I love bean sprouts, but they have the irritating tendency to spoil approximately 2 minutes after I pick them up off the shelf at the store; consequently, I had to use the damn things up before I had to throw yet another half-empty bag of them away. As for the pork... well, I needed protein, and pork tends to be fairly malleable when it comes to flavor. Ingredients in hand, I stared at them on the counter for a few minutes, mind a-whirling, in hopes of finding some inspiration. Given that I was hungry already, I decided a fast concoction would definitely be best. And what better fast-cooking method can there be than a stir-fry?

Stir-fried rainbow chard with pork tenderloin
(Well, it's not a real recipe, so I figured a descriptive title would be best)

Ingredients
1 Bunch rainbow chard, chopped
1 Leftover chunk of pork, sliced thin
1/2 Bag of bean sprouts
2tbsp Hoisin sauce
1tbsp Oyster sauce
1tbsp Soy sauce

Procedure
1) Heat 1 liter of water in a wok or large saucepan until it just reaches a boil.

2) Add the chopped chard and boil for 1 minute.

Ok, so it's not really all that fried. I figured boiling couldn't hurt, if it's really fast.

3) Remove the chard to a colander and allow to rest for a bit.


4) In the same pan, add the hoisin, oyster, and soy sauces and mix briefly. Add the pork and shake to coat.

Of course, the sauce choices will vary based on personal preferences.

5) Cook until the sauce has mostly disappeared.

This method works particularly well for meat that was undercooked to start with.

6) Add the bean sprouts to scoop up the remaining sauce and shake to combine. Or stir. I prefer shaking, as it's more impressive and reduces cleanup.


7) Remove from heat and add the chard back into the mix. Shake or stir to combine the ingredients. Serve alongside the rice prepared previously.


Lessons Learned
Chard is bitter. As such, I think it can benefit from strong flavor combinations; this dish was somewhat weak, and the chard came through very strongly. It still tasted good, but I might consider a stronger sauce if I made it again. Otherwise, it was a satisfying spur-of-the-moment dish, so I can't really complain. I can only hope my future experiments work out so smoothly.

Pecan-Encrusted Salmon

Fish rarely seems to be the most appetizing food to photograph.

In my experience, it is a relatively common occurrence for me to become hungry and have absolutely no inspiration as to what I should conjure forth from my the depleted stores tucked away in my pantry. It is also rather common for me to buy stuff that is supposedly healthy and then proceed to ignore it for months at a time as I consume my usual fare. Now on their own, these two problems are not all that interesting; having random stuff I don't care much for doesn't provide any additional inspiration, and indeed tends to encourage me to seek out external establishments from which to purchase my meals. However, on this particular evening, these two forces combined with a third (and a significantly more powerful) force: convenience.

I can see some explanation is in order. As anyone who has read a handful of my recipes can observe, some of the culinary "tests" I put myself through are designed to stretch my kitchen's horizons and broaden my repertoire. Consequently, when a trial recipe calls for an ingredient I don't really keep on hand (e.g., pecans), I am forced to buy a half-ton of them (because if I buy in bulk, I can save a quarter or two) and am subsequently left with an abundance of what I call "recipe fillers" and no idea how to get rid of them. I'm sure this gives one the picture of my cupboards chuck-full of miscellany and my trash can filled with take-out bags (which is only sometimes the case!). Nonetheless, I am always vigilantly seeking new inspiration from various websites and magazines to help me get rid of both the monotony of sandwiches for dinner and the clutter of my cupboards.

As one might be able to decipher by now, this long-winded buildup is a means of stating that in this particular instance, I managed to find a recipe (http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Alaska-Salmon-Bake-with-Pecan-Crunch-Coating/Detail.aspx) that utilized ingredients that I have been attempting to eliminate from my pantry with only a few items that I did not have on hand (the only noteworthy one being dijon mustard, which I have since decided will be a permanent fixture in my refrigerator). Furthermore, the end result was actually rather tasty and allowed me to finish off the accursed bag of frozen salmon fillets that had been mockingly staring back at me whenever I opened the freezer.

Recipe:
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons butter, melted
5 teaspoons honey
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs*
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans
3 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
6 (4 ounce) fillets salmon
salt and pepper to taste

* I didn't have bread crumbs on hand, but I did have some saltines that had been sitting in my cupboard for the better part of a decade. I crushed these up into something pretending to be crumbs that called it even. Since this obviously added some salt to the recipe, I simply reduced the amount of salt added directly later on.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C).

1) In a small bowl, mix together the mustard, butter, and honey. To help the honey dissolve, I heated the entire mixture in the microwave for ~15 seconds or so and stirred again.

Somewhat dull in appearance, but its flavor was terrific!

2) In a zip-top bag, mix together the bread crumbs, pecans, and parsley. Since I had to crush my crackers and pecans by hand, I did both in the bag before chopping the parsley in.

Actual levels of crumblage may vary depending on the tastes and level of frustration of the cook.

3) Season each salmon fillet with salt and pepper and place them in a lightly oiled cast iron skillet. Be sure not to use too much oil here; the goal is not to fry them, simply to keep them from sticking.
4) Brush each fillet evenly with the mustard-honey mixture.

I bet just cooking them like this (without adding the crumbs) would be even better than the actual recipe.

5) Sprinkle the crumb mixture on top of the fillets to coat.

No, the bag didn't explode in my kitchen; this was a deliberate and careful effort.

6) Bake for 10 minutes per inch of thickness, measured at thickest part, or until salmon just flakes when tested with a fork.

I should note that although this recipe helped me discover I don't think I'll ever really care much for salmon, it was actually very tasty, most especially the honey-dijon glaze. I might consider altering this recipe for use on chicken breasts or even pork chops as I think the sweetness would compliment those meats particularly well. That said, I don't know that it would be suited to most types of fish due to the strength of the dijon flavor.

Turkish Yogurt Marinated Chicken

This recipe is another hoisted shamelessly from the folks at WorldWide Recipes (as linked in previous posts), and I refer to it as 'Turkish' because that was their term for it. I question how Turkish it is, but that really wasn't the point anyway. Below, I've listed my slightly modified version.

Marinade:
2 cups (500 ml) plain yogurt
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
1 onion, finely chopped
2-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
A good couple squirts of hot sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Protein:
6-8 pieces of chicken (about 1.5lbs, I think)

Mix all ingredients in a zip-top bag or sealable bowl and add the chicken. Shake about some to make sure the chicken gets coated and refrigerate for 6-12 hours (I just stuck it in for 24; I don't think it hurt anything).

Now, since I seem to have forgotten to get a picture of the marinade or the chicken prior to cooking, I'll just move along to cooking. I used an outdoor grill for this recipe, and in retrospect, I wouldn't recommend it again. This would probably be better baked at 350-400F, as I think the gentler cooking process would help the marinade adhere better to the meat. Regardless, I grilled it for ... well, until it was done, flipping once to ensure proper doneness.

Ok, so it may not look particularly appetizing here. It still tasted good. Besides, chicken thighs are hard to cook prettily.

After the chicken finishes cooking, let it cool for a bit and salt to taste. The end-product of my version didn't have much in the way of residual marinade on it, as you can see:

As you can see in the top-right corner, I served this with the leftover garlic bread from my Brazilian Lime Marinated Salmon.

Lessons learned:
As I mentioned previously, I wouldn't grill the chicken next time. The chicken was very moist, but didn't carry the depth that the marinade seemed to suggest (the marinade itself smelled wonderful). I might also consider adding an herb garnish (basil or rosemary) for a bit of added flavor at the end.

Salmon with Brazilian Garlic and Lime Marinade

In my ongoing attempt to find random recipes to inspire my generally uninspired palate, I stumbled across Worldwide Recipes and signed up for their mailing list. The intent was for them to provide me with ideas, as I rarely come up with them on my own. This serves the dual purpose of pushing me to experiment with new flavors as well as preventing me from eating sandwiches 5 nights a week.

The recipes provided by the list so far have been surprisingly accessible and, perhaps more importantly, quite global in theme. Last week's theme was "marinades and sauces", and I copied at least two of them down for future use (more on the second coming soon). I made small modifications to the mixing of the ingredients, so my recipe is below. This version turned out very nice, but rather overpowering for salmon (or indeed, most any fish that I can think of; it might pair well with swordfish, or something with a *very* distinct flavor to it) as the lime comes through quite strongly. My roommate and I agreed it would go much better with a more "robust" meat--oddly, we both agreed that lamb would be the best choice, so I may give that a shot sometime in the future.

Brazilian Garlic and Lime Marinade

4-8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) coarse salt
3/4 cup (180 ml) lime juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley
2 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts,
finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh rosemary
Cayenne pepper or hot sauce to taste (optional)

Mix all ingredients in a plastic zip-top bag or a bowl that has a lid and set the meat in it to marinate. For fish (fillets especially, as I was using), I'd suggest marinating no longer than 30-60 minutes, as the fish can get rubbery from the acids. For red meat, you could probably marinate for up to 6-8 hours, depending on the thickness of the cut and how tender you like the meat. I generally set steaks to marinate overnight anyway, so 18-24 hours might be OK, but I haven't tried it myself with this particular marinade.


After marinating the salmon, broil for about 20 minutes or until the color has changed from a solid pink to a somewhat muted peachish, depending on the thickness of the fillets (mine were about 3/4in. thick, and came out just about perfect) and salt to taste. I garnished it with remnants of the marinade as well as a sage chiffonade for a little extra zing.


The sage was probably unnecessary, as it got rather overwhelmed by the very strong lime flavor. I served the salmon with some garlic bread, which actually helped keep the lime from overpowering things, so it made a surprisingly good side dish. It would also pair well with other salty foods: perhaps some potatoes au gratin, asparagus simmered in butter, or wild rice.

Lessons learned:
Not a lot of lessons, so much as modifications for next time. Perhaps this would be better titled "future improvements". Regardless, I would probably actually cut the lime juice down to 1/2c and add 1tbsp of Worcestershire sauce for some added salt, but that probably detracts from the Brazilian theme. Also, as I mentioned before, I would definitely use this with a stronger meat, such as lamb or beef (or perhaps buffalo, but that's not really my taste, and I don't know how many buffalo are left roaming about the broad open plains of Brazil). As a final addition, I would add a bit more spice to the marinade; I was somewhat shy with my rooster sauce this time, and it didn't really come through at all. Cayenne pepper might have been a bit stronger.

Braised Pork Ribs

The secret to quality ribs, be they pork or otherwise, has eluded me for years. Each time I attempt to cook them, I wind up with a discouraging half-success, in that I have a concoction that's technically edible, but not quite what I'm looking for. Consequently, I pick them up once or twice a year to reattempt, only to come out of the experience discouraged and vowing to get my rib fix at a proper barbecue restaurant henceforth.

True to form, this attempt was little different. Several lessons learned, but I'll have to wait until the next time I feel so inspired to try and remedy the issues noted below. The recipe follows (as appropriated somewhat shamelessly from "Good Eats"):

Rub:
8 parts brown sugar
3 parts salt (I'd recommend reducing this to 2 parts, if not 1.5)
1 part blended cumin, anise, fennel, cayenne
1 part miscellaneous etc.
--Misc: 2 parts onion powder, 1 part garlic powder, 2 part chile powder, 1/2 part cinnamon, 1/2 part ginger powder, 2 parts italian herb, 2 part chinese 5-spice powder

Meat:
1 rack of pork spareribs

Braising liquid:
1/2 cup white wine (Gewurtz or pinot grigio work well for this; chardonnay not recommended, but it'll do)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

Sauce:
Store-bought barbecue sauce of your choosing

Hardware:
1 baking sheet
1 piece of wide aluminum foil (long enough to hold the ribs)
1 microwave safe bowl/container

Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Place the foil on the baking sheet, then the ribs on the foil. Mix all the rub ingredients together thoroughly and sprinkle very liberally over both sides of the ribs, patting it down to ensure proper surface contact. After applying the seasoning, make sure that the ribs are convex-side up (i.e., standing on the tips of the ribs, not resting on the rounded portion) and wrap it up in the foil. Refrigerate the newly-rubbed ribs for at least an hour (recommended: let it sit overnight).

After letting the ribs set for a while, you can start to make the braising mixture. In the microwave-safe bowl, mix the white wine, honey, worchestershire, and crushed garlic. Microwave the mixture on high for 30 seconds or so to ensure that the honey dissolves properly. Next, remove the ribs from the fridge and open up one end of the foil covering. Pour the mixture into the opening and tilt the ribs slightly to ensure that the liquid gets distributed properly. Reseal the foil opening and place the ribs on the middle rack of the oven. Let cook for ~2 hours, smelling the oven periodically to make sure you don't smell anything burning.

Remove the ribs and set the oven to broil. Let the ribs cool for a few minutes (and drain the braising liquid), then open up the foil and brush on your sauce. Place the ribs under the broiler (without closing the foil) for up to 30 seconds--watch carefully, as the sauce will burn very quickly. Once the sauce has caramelized, remove the ribs and let them cool again. Slice into desired portions and serve with napkins.

Lessons learned:
In retrospect, the spice rub utilizes too much salt; I'd subsequently reduce it to 2 parts instead of 3. The spices add a great flavor, and could probably be increased to make up the missing part. Outside of that, the recipe wasn't bad at all. The sauce was originally supposed to be made from a reduction of the braising liquid, but while I was attempting that, my smoke alarm started going off and I decided to forgo that this time and get this over with.